Mumbai

Where to stay

Colaba is where most budget travelers land. Arthur Bunder Road and the lanes off Colaba Causeway have the densest cluster of guesthouses, and you can walk to Gateway of India, CSMT, and Crawford Market without needing a taxi. Fort, one stop north, is quieter and puts you closer to Irani cafes and office-lunch thalis that are half the price of anything tourist-facing.

Getting around

• Use the suburban rail for anything beyond a 2km radius. Second-class tickets cost next to nothing and the Western, Central, and Harbour lines cover nearly everywhere you'd want to go. Avoid the 8-10am and 6-8pm crush hours if you have luggage.
• Rickshaws only operate north of Bandra. In South Mumbai you will need the black-and-yellow metered taxis or Ola/Uber. Always use the app. Standing outside Gateway of India and negotiating will cost you three times as much.
• Chor Bazaar on Mutton Street in Dongri runs best on Friday mornings before 10am. Antiques, old Bollywood posters, random brass pieces. Nothing is priced so everything is negotiable, and a chai stall at the entrance charges a few rupees a cup.

When to go

June through September brings monsoon rains and noticeably lower hostel rates, while December through February fills beds fast as the weather cools and New Year crowds hit Juhu and Marine Drive.