Kep

Where to stay

Budget guesthouses cluster along the 1km strip of road running from Kep Beach toward the Crab Market (Phsar Kdam), where you can walk to the water and the pepper-crab stalls without needing a tuk-tuk. A handful of cheaper places sit up near the Kep National Park entrance, but you'll pay for rides back down every time.

Getting around

• Book the Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay) boat directly at the pier near Kep Beach. Boatmen charge a small fee return. Guesthouse 'arrangements' often double that.
• At Phsar Kdam, crab is sold by the kilo, not the dish. Point to a crab and confirm the weight price before it goes in the pot. A 1kg crab with Kampot pepper sauce runs a few dollars depending on the stall.
• Kampot, 25km up the road, has more guesthouses, better restaurants, and lower nightly rates. Base yourself there and day-trip to Kep rather than the reverse if you're watching your budget.

When to go

June through September brings the rains and near-empty guesthouses at their lowest prices. December through February fills up fast with European winter escapees, especially on weekends, so book at least a few days ahead.