Kota Kinabalu

Where to stay

Budget hostels concentrate along and around Jalan Gaya and the blocks running toward the waterfront. That puts you within walking distance of Jesselton Point ferry terminal, the Central Market on Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens, and the Filipino Market on Jalan Berjaya for cheap grilled seafood at night.

Getting around

• Ferry tickets to the Tunku Abdul Rahman islands are sold at a fixed government rate at Jesselton Point, so ignore any hostel or tour desk offering to book them for you at a markup.
• The Gaya Street Sunday Market runs roughly 6am to noon. Show up before 8am for the full spread of local produce, cooked food, and handicrafts before the heat sets in and stalls start packing up.
• Long-distance buses to Sandakan, Ranau, or Tenom leave from Inanam Bus Terminal, not from downtown. Take a local bus from Padang Merdeka or a Grab to avoid paying taxi rates to reach it.

When to go

Hostels are cheapest and easiest to book in November through January when northeast monsoon rains keep visitor numbers down. July and August fill up fast as dive and hiking season peaks, especially if you want a Kinabalu Park permit.