Pokhara

Where to stay

Lakeside, locally called Baidam, runs along the eastern shore of Phewa Lake and holds the bulk of budget hostels, gear rental shops, and food options. If Lakeside feels too touristy, Damside just to the south is quieter and still within easy walking distance of the lake.

Getting around

• Paragliding operators cluster along the main Lakeside strip and prices vary by a wide margin. Walk past the first few before committing. A standard tandem flight launching from Sarangkot has a well-known going rate, so any quote well above that is counting on you skipping the comparison.
• Sort out your trekking permits, the TIMS card and ACAP permit for Annapurna routes, at the permit office in Pokhara before you leave town. Fees are government-fixed, and you cannot handle the paperwork once you are on the trail.
• Local tempos, small three-wheeled shared vehicles, connect Old Bazaar to Lakeside for a few rupees. Tourist taxis cover the same ground for roughly ten times the price.

When to go

October through November and March through April fill hostels fast as trekkers use Pokhara as a staging point for Annapurna routes. January and February bring the lowest prices, with cold nights but reliably clear views of the Himalayas.