Yogyakarta

Where to stay

Sosrowijayan, the cluster of alleyways just off Malioboro Street, is where most backpackers land. Gang 1 and Gang 2 run parallel behind the main strip and pack in cheap guesthouses, warungs, and travel agents. Prawirotaman, about 2 km south along Jalan Prawirotaman, is quieter and draws a slightly older crowd, with a mix of small cafes and budget-to-mid-range hostels.

Getting around

• Trans Jogja buses run from Tugu train station down to Malioboro and out toward Prambanan for a few thousand rupiah per ride. They are slow but reliable, and far cheaper than flagging down a taxi for the same routes.
• Beringharjo Market, at the southern end of Malioboro Street, has better batik prices than the tourist shops along the main strip. Walk the stalls on the ground floor, compare a few vendors, and only buy once you have a feel for the going rate.
• Skip the packaged Borobudur tours sold in Sosrowijayan and arrange a driver independently through your hostel or a local contact. You pay less, leave earlier to beat the crowds, and are not locked into a fixed return time.

When to go

Hostels drop their rates during the wet months of November through February, while July and August fill up fast as domestic school holidays and international visitors arrive at the same time.