Esquel

Where to stay

Budget beds cluster along Avenida Alvear and the streets radiating from the central plaza, keeping you within walking distance of the bus terminal and the main strip of shops. Staying downtown is essential if you plan to catch the early morning train or the daily bus to Los Alerces, as the town is linear and services thin out quickly toward the edges.

Getting around

• La Trochita, the historic narrow-gauge Old Patagonian Express, departs from Esquel for a scenic ride to El Maitén. Book tickets in advance during peak winter months, as the train is a major regional draw and sells out.
• Esquel is the gateway to Los Alerces National Park, about 50 km northwest. A daily bus runs from the town terminal, but renting a car is far more flexible for navigating the park's dusty dirt roads and reaching the boat launches for the ancient alerce trees.
• La Hoya ski resort is just outside town and famous for its bowl-shaped topography that keeps slopes in the shade, preserving powder longer than neighboring areas. There is no lodging at the resort itself, so staying in Esquel is mandatory.

When to go

Hostels are most expensive and hardest to book from June through September, when the ski season at La Hoya draws crowds from across Argentina. Rates drop significantly in the shoulder months of April-May and October-November, when the weather is cooler but the slopes are closed and the park roads are less muddy.