Oaxaca

Where to stay

Budget travelers mostly cluster in the Centro Histórico within walking distance of the zócalo, or in Jalatlaco, a quieter barrio a few blocks east of the cathedral with cobblestone streets and most of the better-value hostels sitting near Calle José María Pino Suárez.

Getting around

• Eat the comida corrida at the comedores inside Mercado 20 de Noviembre, a block south of the zócalo. A full plate from the Pasillo de Humo charcoal grill section costs a fraction of what any sit-down place on Macedonio Alcalá charges.
• Colectivos to Monte Albán leave from near the Mercado de Abastos and are significantly cheaper than the tourist shuttles departing from Centro hotels.
• Mezcal at Mercado de Abastos, the large covered market on the southwest edge of the city, costs roughly a third of what the mezcalerías along Alcalá charge. Many stalls let you fill small bottles from the barrel.

When to go

May, June, and September see the lowest prices as rain keeps package tourists away. Beds book out weeks in advance for Día de los Muertos in late October through early November and for the Guelaguetza festival in late July.